Praia do Forte

August 1st
Today Angelika and I got up early to catch a bus to go to Praia do Forte. Praia do Forte is a beach about two hours north of Salvador which is more remote (although still touristy, but in a good way in my opinion). We got up early and caught a city bus to the rodoviaria de Salvador where we got a charter bus (for 8.00 dollars round trip) to take us to Praia do Forte. Once we arrived at the rodoviaria, about 9:50, we were able to buy our tickets for the 10:30 bus to Praia do Forte, so we did not have a long wait. We grabbed some beach snacks from the grocery store (they have a full grocery store in the bus station) and then hit the road. Our bus was not direct and there were many other stops along the way, but luckily there were two other groups that were also getting off at the praia and we were able to ask the bus driver to let us know when we were close. We arrived at Praia do Forte around 12:30. We were warned by several people; our hostel owner, the bus ticket vendor, and the bus driver, to make sure that we knew the last bus returning to Salvador would pass though Praia do Forte around 6:00 and to make sure we did not miss it.
From the bus stop you walk through a quaint little tourist town to get to the beach. This area most closely resembled a beach town trips that I have taken in the US. The pedestrian street was lines with little hostels and pousadas, restaurants and nice shops. Although it was very touristy, it was a nice, and safer, side of tourism than we had seen in Salvador. Granted the town we visited was much smaller, but there was not the same division between the population and tourist generated business and the people who lived in the town. All of the side streets were lined with local schools and houses, kids were playing soccer in the main pedestrian Avenida. Praia do Forte just had the relaxed, sleepy beach town feel that we needed at this point in our stay.
After about a 20 min stroll down the pedestrian Avenida we arrived at the historical igreja and the principal beach. In striking contrast to all of the other beaches we have visited in Brazil Praia do Forte was remote, with hardly any people out, and no pushy vendors at all. We walked down the coastline until it bent into a bay where several local fishermen’s boats were anchored,and we decided to walk back about halfway the beach and set up for the day along the palm trees in our own private section of the beach. We spent about three hours lounging in the sun and enjoying the sheer tranquility of the beach and the lack of people. Now I am, for the most part, a fan of the beach vendors; they bring you a variety of cheap snacks and you do not have to even get up, but the vendors can also be pushy. The busy beaches that we have been to are all full of life and fun activities, but they are more stressful because you have to be aware of your surroundings at all times. It was really nice to have this beach as a contrast to the other beaches we have enjoyed in Brazil.
Around 3:45 we decided to get up and walk around the area a bit more. Right behind the church is Projecto Tamar which is a sea turtle rescue and support organization which you can pay a fee to visit and feed turtles and tour their facility. Angelika and I walked around the project but decided not to go in since we would not be able to see much before they closed. We decided to change gears and look for some snacks. Ironically for a tourist town we were able to get some great light food, inexpensively, at a little bakery. We both got little sandwiches and freshly blended juice and then decided to split a guava sonho, or ‘dream,’ donut like pastry for desert; all for about 5 dollars each. After we refueled we decided to wander back through the little town and catch the 5:00 bus back to Salvador.
As we approached the bus stop to wait for the next bus back we were immediately shouted at by 5 different taxi/ private drivers for hire telling us not to get on the bus, that it was not going to come and that it would be much better (and 20 times more expensive) to let them drive us the two and a half hours back to Salvador. I am sure that these guys must make a lot of money off of the people who missed the last bus at 6:00! However, we knew that we were early and so we decided to just wait the 20 min and only pay 3.50 for our trip back, and I think we got the better and more professional deal. On the way back the bus was very full, but it made fewer stops so we arrived back in Salvador around 7:00. On the way we saw the best sunset of all week! From the Rodoviaria we were able to a city bus back to Barra and walk to our hostel. We ended up making dinner and watching a movie since Angelika was still not feeling well and we had been out in the sun all day.